Lessons of a half liter single in a three liter world

[Al Goodwin]

.my bike will never be clean AGAIN....



.

[wweaver11]

Awesome Ride Report!!!!!!

[Al Goodwin]

[Chitza]

Lessons from Day 10 - 3 feet

Day 10 lessons were a repeat of the lessons of day 2. Know your limits and the limits of your bike. It had rained for four days in the area but it was clearing. We were on our second day at the Fairbanks hotel and we were rested and getting antsy. A last minute decision was made to make an evening run to the Arctic Circle via the Dalton Hwy. I was still struggling with pet care at home and thought I might have to jump ship and find a way home. Road conditions were uncertain. Melony wasn't keen on riding either so we stayed "home"
while the boys rode. They pulled out at 6:30, saying they would be back before dark. They kept their promise, rolling in at 3:30am. Day 10 was theirs. Allen and Tony have posted pics and I'll add my video. Maybe Lincoln will throw in a few as well. The 3 feet on the day was when I pulled my bike out of the way for the guys to depart. As for me and Melony...what happens in Fairbanks, stays in Fairbanks 8)

[norton73]

This is great!

Good on you for going after your dreams and pushing your limits.

[Chitza]

Lessons from Day 11: 135 miles (plus about 12 miles of back tracking)

1. An oil change on the fly in Alaska required dumpster diving, stealth, and ingenuity - We all made plans for an oil change near the halfway point. I consulted with Landers at Tech 46 and we decided to switch my bike to a high quality synthetic and manage it by keeping a check on my oil and adding as needed. Changing my oil is a PITA and would not be easy in a parking lot. But we had ridden harder than I anticipated and I was concerned about the abuse my engine was taking. I didn't have problems, but I was skating on the edge.
We stopped at an Autozone and the guys bought oil. Don't expect the same policies in Alaska that we are afforded here. They don't take used oil but one of the drivers directed us to the nearest transfer station between Fairbanks and North Pole. Tony went dumpster diving and found some empty gallon jugs to use as oil pans and we played tag team changing their oil.





2. The "North Pole" is actually south of Fairbanks - We rolled through the candy cane lined streets and stopped by Santa's house for souvenirs and gifts. You wouldn't think the store clerks would find any request unusual, but I got strange looks when I asked for a penguin ornament that would travel 5000 miles on a motorcycle without being destroyed.
3. A skinny man named Dick owns a bar, gift shop and lodge half way between Fairbanks and Denali National Park - Well, actually, it's owned by an older woman with a sense of humor. It had a strange mixed feeling of local hangout and tourist trap.







4. Alaskan road crews are awesome - I know it's a surprise,  but when we left Skinny Dick's it started to rain. There was road construction, another surprise, on a metal grate bridge that crossed the Nenana River. I enjoyed crossing that bridge during construction in the rain so much I went back and did it three more times. Tony and I had arrived at the bridge before the others who had stopped for pictures or rain gear and we took the opportunity to don our wet weather gear. When preparing to depart, I had not fully snapped my hip pouch. You know, the one with my money, credit cards and passport inside? It fell off somewhere on the bridge and I didn't notice for several miles. A road crew member had noticed and stored it in the event I returned. Which I did with many thanks. Cool chick. She rides an f650gs.
5. Tourists are like cockroaches - do I really need to say anything more? Other than, I personally find a big difference between seeing the sights  and experiencing what a place has to offer that is different than what I know at home. Drawn by Denali National Park, tourists flood Healy, AK, in large RVs and busses during the very short summer.
6. Showers are extra - Get while the gettin's good. Just because you paid for a $40 campsite doesn't mean your shower is free. "Cleanliness is more important when godliness is not likely." - PJ O'Rourke. I skipped the $5 shower.

Take aways: We stopped that evening at 49th State Brewery for dinner. It is an upscale restaurant, brewery and tourist stop just north of Denali. They played the tourist game well. 49th State is 35 miles from the location where Chris McCandless' body was found, starved to death. Chris had set out to hike the old gold mining road now known as the Stampede Trail, surviving off meager rations and whatever Alaska's wilderness provided.  He had survived by taking shelter in the "Magic Bus" for three months, unable to find his way out or enough viable food. The bus, a retired 1946 International Harvester City of Fairbanks transit bus, was abandoned by a road crew in the 60s and had become a known shelter for hunters in the area. His story became the subject of many books and an award winning film, "Into the Wild."  Thirty five miles from where we sat, the tragedy that was Chris McCandless' life came to an end. Thirty five miles. The distance from where I live to downtown Birmingham. Thirty five miles. The distance of the average one way commute for most Americans. And in the courtyard of 49th State Brewery was the replica bus used in the film.



Hundreds of people have made the thirty five mile trek from Healy, AK, to the original Magic Bus. Some have died due to the treacherous terrain and unpredictable nature of the Teklanika River that had swollen and prevented Chris from leaving. Thirty five miles from a place that was now very much abuzz with activity and Magic Bus trinkets for sale in the gift shop. I ate in silence for the most part. Contemplating how close I was to being lost in this adventure. In to the wild that is the reality of Alaska. The dichotomy of the life of those who choose to live there. Not the picture I dreamed. Not the novelty of Skinny Dick, Santa Clause or a toy bus on a shelf by 20 others just like it. The reality of wild Alaska.

[IceCold4x4]

Damn good post. Kinda crazy to think about how far 35 miles can be yet in our current society how quickly one normally covers that....

[Chitza]

Lessons from Day 12: 382miles

1. RV sites, tent sites and drive up sites are not the same - We camped the night before within bike pushing distance of 49th State Brewery. It was convenient but confusing. We asked for a site with electricity so we could charge our devices so they gave us an RV site disguised as a mud hole. We noticed a couple bikes in a wooded area with plenty of spaces for more tents. But we were informed all the tent sites were reserved. With further investigation, there were open "drive up" sites that were available. Meaning there
Was a gravel pad for a car to park. We finally gave up arguing and just set up camp. No one seemed to notice or care.
2. Restrooms are for paying customers only - The meanest man in Alaska runs a gas station at the intersection of Parks Hwy in Cantwell and the Denali Hwy. He will let you know as soon as you open the door. Better hope there's not a line at the register and you have to pee before you make your purchase.
3. The sweetest lady in Alaska runs "The Roadhouse" near the intersection of Richardson Hwy and the other end of the Denali Hwy. Just in time for my cohorts to get fuel, too. They were running on fumes by the time we reached the end of Denali. I still had half a tank ;)
4. Always ask the store clerk - John at the Chevron in Tok referred us to the Eagles Claw Motorcycle Camp. Our host knows how to take care of motorcyclists and campers. My favorite campground. She had a sauna, a camp kitchen and a Moto shop on premises. Complete with a tire changer.

What the group learned about me: Too much gravel can shake my brain loose

Take aways: From the hatching of the plan to ride to Alaska there had been open offers for input in to the route. My input was always "My route will be to follow the tail lights in front of me." Alaska was my goal. Anything else was gravy. I neglected to mention that I don't like gravy 8)

We discussed riding through Denali National Park but rumors and forecast indicated it would be futile as clouds were going to obscure all views. So we headed south with the final goal to be swinging east and north back to Tok for a next day run at the portion of the AlCan we had missed by taking the Klondike to Dawson City. We stopped in to see Mr. Grumpus and not use his bathroom and to check the GPS for a route. I knew by the gleam in the DS riders' eyes that I was not gonna be happy. They had found the Denali Hwy. 120 miles of dirt road.  I did my routine, asking a woman in a mini van who had driven the road the day before what I could expect. I made a half hearted statement about back tracking on pavement and meeting them in Tok but I didn't go with my gut and hopped on the Denali with that brick in my stomach. Lincoln's message was still visible on my windscreen and I tried desperately to calm myself. I kept reminding myself that I had accomplished the Top of the World. Why was this one so hard for me to accept? Maybe it was the surprise. The unknown and unexpected. The general exhaustion that comes with riding that far. I can't really say. I just know it was the hardest 110 miles I have ever ridden. By my assessment the road was in much worse condition than TOW. Washboard sections. Pot holes and slick spots. With very little suspension travel, street tires and an extra 80lbs of gear I was not having fun. I would sigh in relief when I found sections that were as good as the road construction we had encountered. I found myself at complete physical and mental exhaustion by the time we hit Paxson.  My bike and I both took a beating. All I can say is I am thankful the guys didn't kick my ass off the side of that mountain...because the last 10 miles of Denali was a very nice smoothly paved curve Mecca.

[lazeebum]

Still liking this. Great write up.

[Chitza]

Lessons from Day 13: 386miles

1. Did someone mention that it rained? - And just because the sun is up in Alaska, doesn't mean it's warm. We packed up camp in a light drizzle and headed out. The drizzle became rain. I heard reports of 52 degrees and 40 degrees. When you're wet, it's all cold.
2. Rain does not slow the road crews - They still work, and when you're riding with somewhere to be, you still ride.
3. Canadian border patrol does not care that you're wet - The border patrol officer was very chatty with me. Lots of nosy questions. "Where did you meet these people you're riding with?", "How long have you known them?", "How long did you plan this trip?"   I felt she was really asking, "Are you guys crazy?"
4. Formaldehyde makes you psychotic - I keep a pack of cheap cigarettes in my pack for pan handlers. When they ask for money, they will usually settle for a free cigarette. Melony and I were approached by a barefoot "traveler" near the Alaska/Canadian border and I gave him a few cigarettes. He insisted on giving me a few of his special ones in exchange. Nothing else he said made sense. They went in the firepit that night.
5. When you're cold and wet, a place called "Frosty's" doesn't seem like a good place to stop for dinner. But it is. Do it.

View from Frosty's in Haines, Junction, YT, Canada



The ride from in to Haines Junction had been beautiful, even with the clouds and rain. Nice curvy roads and occasional views of the mountain range.

6. Store clerks are a good resource of information - The rain, cold and construction had worn us all down. I couldn't even get warm when we stopped. Teeth chattering, shivering kinda cold. Consensus was a hotel room was in our near future. When we arrived in Whitehorse, we had completed the entire length of the AlCan Hwy. our reward was going to be a soft bed and a hot shower. Except the Canadian government didn't oblige us. Whitehorse is the capital of the Yukon Territory Province and they were hosting a summit of government officials.  Every hotel room within a one hundred mile radius was booked. The clerk at the gas station got out a phone book and called every out of the way place she could think of. And then started calling campgrounds. She found us a place at Robert Stevens Service campground. At least they had hot showers and a coffee shop with fresh made pastries.
7. When they say the shower costs a loonie, take three - The campground shower costs a loonie(Canadian one dollar coin). But that was for 5minutes. I only had one. So it was a race. Get everything ready, soap in one hand, shampoo poured in to the other. Like a sprinter on the starting line, I dropped my coin in the slot and raced to beat the hot water to the finish line. I actually made it with about 15 secs remaining to just enjoy the hot water.
8. U Haul will give you a break on a rental if you are going where they need equipment delivery. Especially if you look pathetic and beg.

Take aways:   I had some regrets about not making it to the Arctic Circle sign. So close and I wigged out. I will not likely have another chance. But from the beginning, I said my goal was to go as far as my body and my bike would allow me to go. In my mind, Alaska would be my ultimate prize. But in reality whatever distance I made would be more adventure than I had ever accomplished. Even if it was to the end of my driveway, packed with the intention of going to Alaska.
And so we woke on the morning of Day 14. Radar check: more rain. My body was shutting down and all my gear had failed. It was still wet. Hanging from the edge of the picnic table trying to coax our neighbor's campfire for some warmth. My only pair of jeans were wet all the way to my knees. My boots were a slosh fest. I had worn plastic grocery bags over my socks the day before in an attempt to keep my feet dry with a little success. I made the call. U haul had a truck in Whitehorse that needed to be delivered to...Montana. Perfect. I told the group my plan and we said our goodbyes. It wasn't easy to watch them ride off without me. We had not been more than a few feet from each other in two weeks. Well, other than the miles that separated us when their skill out rode mine. There was comfort in knowing that Lincoln's track was in front of me to follow and Tony, Allen and Melony were in my rear view mirror. Now I was alone.

I had one ratchet strap and a pack of wet clothes. I was scheduled to pick up the truck at 1:30. I sat by my neighbor's smoldering campfire and tried to warm and dry my gear. I packed and got dressed, found the nearest Walmart and headed across town. A new (dry) pair of jeans, a set of ratchet straps and warm socks. I don't like shopping at Walmart, but the familiarity, a piece of home, something predictable and recognizable was calming.

And so I loaded my bike and began the journey home.

[Chuck A.]

Arms folded, foot tapping the floor. Eyes on the screen, waiting for more. :o

[Chitza]

Back at work on both jobs this week. Next installment is half written. I'll try to get it posted tonight ;)

[SpeedyR]

great report. one of these days I'll plan a trip there, just have to figure out timing and logistics but hopefully will be able to spend a couple of weeks, maybe with a passenger. my daughter is only 8 but hope in the future she'll want to go do some riding with her dad...

As for your decisions, it's always better to listen to your body and think about your plans and actions. It seems like you made the right decisions.

I"d be curious to hear your post ride gear review. what worked and what didn't. what gear would you take again, what would you leave. What you would spend more money on (rain gear?) vs. going cheap...

thanks for taking the time to do this. I know it takes a lot of effort. it's like the 2-3 hours I spend every so often to get 3-4 minutes of good video. :) I appreciate the effort (riding and writing!).

[Chitza]

The trip home:

Uhaul gave me six days (from Friday at 1:30pm) to get to Great Fallls, MT. I was there by 10:30am Sunday morning. I retraced the miles we had ridden on the Alaska Hwy, figuring I would at least know where to camp. I was planning a dip in the hot springs at Laird River, but when I got there, I wasn't tired. So on I drove. Funny how a place that was completely foreign 2 weeks before had a familiarity. Like you own it even though you really just borrowed it. You will tell stories about it. And if someone says they are going by there, you will reminisce and glow as you share it with them. You know the terrain and recognize it like a crossroad in your hometown. As I drove these roads with my bike in the back, I thought, "Man these roads would be fun to ride!" And I smiled, because I had.



But this time I got to see things I had not seen on the trip up. Mountains, rivers and wildlife. Four HERDS of buffalo, I stopped counting caribou at 25, 3 bears, two BIG moose, a wild horse, 2 red foxes, some beaver looking creature(2 of those) and deer(I didn't count those). And finally, the Eagles. Alaska and the Eagles. Mission accomplished.

I off loaded the bike in Great Falls, MT, and contacted Don. He was 167 miles west of me. Just too far in the wrong direction. The guys at Uhaul were great. They gave me the best non interstate route around traffic in Great Falls and on to Billings. Just a few extra purchases had made packing the bike a challenge. The weather was perfect and now I had to find room for the rain gear and liners I had been wearing. I got creative.






My first time ever in Montana, and I was riding. Found the severed arm of one of Don Quixote's giants.






.... and a nice hotel in Billings.

[Chitza]

While I was traveling in Montana, I got word that Buzz was planning to meet me half way and escort me home. At first I thought he was coming on his bike, but he showed up with my Jeep and this is how I made the final leg home through Wyoming, South Dakota, Iowa, Missouri, Kentucky, Illinois and Tennessee:




Truth in reporting: I started out keeping a close eye on my mileage. But I gave that up by day 5. So my mileage was calculated by google maps. Total: 5380miles

Moto lessons:

No. You don't need a dual sport bike to make this trip:   But I sure would have been happier on one. But now I can't claim to be a novice dirt rider anymore. Granted, the construction, dirt and gravel portions of the trip were stressful for me. I've been chasing dual sport riding for a couple of years. A dirt bike, a dual sport bike, and limited excursions off road. When I left, I didn't believe I could do it, especially on a street bike. I sure wasn't "enjoying" the ride when we took off down the Denali Hwy, but I did it. At the end of the highway, I was upright and alive. Dammit guys, now I have to say I can do it 8)

Don't second guess yourself too much:   I made some last minute decisions on gear that shortened my endurance. I did too much "hoping" my gear would be enough. I should have tested my rain gear and heated vest. I was wet and cold when I didn't need to be.

There's no place like home:  Alaska and points in between are beautiful and seeing things I've never seen was an amazing experience. But truthfully, the fun was in the adventure. We had short spurts of fun, curvy roads but overall the riding around here has more to offer for just plain fun. I've always said I can travel to anywhere in the world from Birmingham, Alabama. And when the roads north of here are closed for winter, I can still ride :)


Some general things I learned:

*Learn to let it go. Expect the unexpected.

Funny thing about me, I'm a sagittarian. Noted to be spontaneous and free spirited. But I was born on the cusp of Capricorn. Folks who are more likely to be regimented and very organized. I have two large plastic bins at my house, packed with camping gear. One is labeled camping kitchen, the other camping bedroom. Taped to the top of each box is a list of its contents and what last minute things need to be added. I can throw them in my Jeep at the last minute and have a well thought out plan for a weekend trip. I say I'm well prepared to be spontaneous :)

My phone note pad is full of lists. Plans for Vintage, a list of grocery staples to keep on hand, daily to do lists that get updated every morning while I drink coffee...and 4 separate lists for my Alaska trip. (Yes, extra clutch lever was on one of those lists). But no list will prepare you for the unexpected. And traveling to unknown territory will always throw you a curve. Relax and trust yourself and your bike. Let it do.

*If you make a decision, own it.

I didn't realize the disadvantages of my bike for this trip. Not that a 650 could not make this trip, but when joined by three full liter bikes, it was a mechanical and mental struggle. I think I have covered the weaknesses of my bike ad nauseum, but it's mine, I love it, I rode it, and it got me home.

The best way to conquer fear is to face it:   I'm not sure if research would have informed me about the construction we would encounter, or if I willingly avoided that information, but I feel pretty certain I would have bailed on the trip had I known ahead of time. Fear rules me at times. Maybe paralyzed with fear is a good analogy. Have you ever been there? Unable to speak. Unable to move out of pure fear? Like "standing in a dark alley with a big bad ass thug pointing a gun at your head" fear. Knowing you may or may not walk out alive. Knowing you may or may not have whatever it is that he wants that could save your life. A bit dramatic, but that's how intense it can be. Avoidance. I'm going with that. I didn't want to know so I wouldn't back out. NW Territory, throw it at me. I've got what you want.

Would I make this trip again? No. But that is not really a negative statement. I'm glad I went. I'm glad we did it the way we did. If we hadn't pushed, if I had the perfect bike, unfailing gear, spectacular weather and smooth curvy roads I wouldn't have learned so much. I suppose that was my goal for this trip. To learn exactly what I was capable of accomplishing. Don't make this trip if you're not willing to face all those ugly facts about yourself and grow from it.

I came home from this trip a different person. More confident in my riding ability and more confidence in myself in general. And a taste for more adventure...