#$%@*&! stripped screws

[klaviator]

I got one screw out with vise grips.  The other 2 were innaccesable with vice grips so I drilled the head off of one.  I was using the Craftsman Extractor bit's to drill them and the third one ended up coming out before the head was drilled off.  I use anti seize compound on all the screws before putting them back.  I replaced the damaged ones with some screws from Lowe's but I should get some better screws with Allen heads or something I can use a socket on.  Any suggestions on where to get some bolts?  The size is #10-32x3/4 IN.

This was the filter that was so hard to get at:



Scooter has 7,000 miles and the filter is supposed to be replaced at 12K.  Glad I didn't wait until then.

[LRobinson]

Ace Hardware always has the best bolt/screw selection.

[lk2rd]

#10-/4 IN may fit but, I'd be surprised if the screws aren't metric unless the holes have been drilled and retapped previously.

Anyway,  since this thread may be helpful for other stuck, stripped, or broken screw victims, I have one other method that works sometimes.  Obtain some left hand twist drill bits and drill the screws with a drill running in reverse. Sometimes the screw will back out while you're drilling.  I've been able to make that work a few times.  If it doesn't work you still have the option to use an extractor.

[LRobinson]

#10-/4 IN may fit but, I'd be surprised if the screws aren't metric unless the holes have been drilled and retapped previously.

Good point.   The screws are probably supposed to be M5.   A 10/32 is close and will work for a bit but could eventually strip because the thread pitch is not identical.   If it is indeed supposed to be M5, I would pick up some M5 socket head (allen type) screws.

[klaviator]

#10-/4 IN may fit but, I'd be surprised if the screws aren't metric unless the holes have been drilled and retapped previously.

Good point.   The screws are probably supposed to be M5.   A 10/32 is close and will work for a bit but could eventually strip because the thread pitch is not identical.   If it is indeed supposed to be M5, I would pick up some M5 socket head (allen type) screws.

Thanks for the info.  I took the screw to Lowes and they just tried it in various holes until it fit.  They wroked just fine on the bike but I wasn't planning to make them permanent replacements.

[jrobinson]

Fastenal is a good local source for different styles of screws.

I agree that they are probably metric.

I know it's a little late now, but you could've used an extractor that looks like a socket.  http://www.amazon.com/Tools-Bolt-Grip-Extractor-5-Piece-394001/dp/B0000CCXVZ

I think I have a set, not sure if they would be small enough.

[lk2rd]

Found this on the internet:

"The 10-32 (10 gauge, 32 threads per inch) is very close to the M5x0.8 mm/thread. The 1/32-inch thread is 0.03125 inch per thread. Multiply by 2.54 cm/inch and you would get 0.794 mm per thread, which may be tolerably close to 0.8 mm of the metric screw. As already noted, the 10-gauge screws major diameter of 0.1891is going to be slightly smaller than 0.19685 of the 5 mm screw (by approximately 8 thousandths). Since a "tight fit" is in the range of 2 thousandths, you will have trouble torquing the wrong sized screw into a 5mm threaded hole or nut." 

So, according to that, the 10/32 screw will fit in an M5 hole better than an M5 screw in a 10/32 hole.

While this has been a PIA for Win, it's been educational for some of us.

[jrobinson]

While this has been a PIA for Win, it's been educational for some of us.

I bet Win learned a few new words in the process, maybe even made up a few.

[kdtrull]

Scooter has 7,000 miles and the filter is supposed to be replaced at 12K.  Glad I didn't wait until then.

Fo-rizzle!

[klaviator]

While this has been a PIA for Win, it's been educational for some of us.

It was educational for me as well.  I'm sure I'll have to deal with stripped screw heads again someday. 

Thanks everyone for the advice and info.

[klaviator]

Fastenal is a good local source for different styles of screws.

I agree that they are probably metric.

I know it's a little late now, but you could've used an extractor that looks like a socket.  http://www.amazon.com/Tools-Bolt-Grip-Extractor-5-Piece-394001/dp/B0000CCXVZ

I think I have a set, not sure if they would be small enough.

There's a Fastenal near me so I'll go check it out.

[Chitza]

I found these on Amazon. I used this vendor for the M5 I needed for my BMW.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00F34OOUK/ref=pd_aw_sim_sbs_328_of_5?ie=UTF8&dpID=41gPEsiol-L&dpSrc=sims&preST=_SL500_SR200%2C192_&refRID=1NJ93CPSXTJ7YDN4RKWP

[bblass]

http://www.sears.com/craftsman-5-pc-power-bolt-out-reg-set/p-00952168000P?sellerId=SEARS&prdNo=5&blockNo=5&blockType=G5

I recommend getting a set of these in case you ever come across this problem again. They fit over the head of the bolt and work with just about any screw that has approx 1mm of edge to grab hold of. The only extractors i've ever found that absolutely work as advertised.

[klaviator]

I stopped at Fastenal and got some M5-0.8 x 20 Button head socket cap screws.  They are the correct size for what I need.  They use a rather small 3mm Allen wrench.  I'd prefer something with a more sturdy head but these are better than what was on there and will work for now.

bblass, those extractors look like they should work.  I try to pick up a set in the not too distant future. 

[Crandon]

At Lowe's they sell the Irwin brand of the extractors for $19.95.  http://www.lowes.com/pd_577634-281-394001_0__?productId=50146292&Ntt=