check me on this stator testing

[Gam]

Yamaha xt225. Electrical stuff makes me dizzy. Three white wires from the stator. The manual says with a meter set to  ( ohms x 1) ... don't know what this means, I set the meter to 200 ohms because that's lowest i have...... anyhow you put positive on stator  wire one and negative on stator wire two, then put positive on stator wire one and negative on stator wire three.  Both readings should be between .48 ohms and .72 ohms, if outside this range replace stator. I get 1.3 ohms on both readings. I could never fly a plane by instruments, I just don't trust them, my reading is almost twice the outside range of .72 ohms, still not convinced those miniscule numbers mean anything.

[LawnmowerRG]

Only thing that comes to mind is you have the wires crossed up some how, or the stator is bad.

Why are you checking it?

If all wires are white then how are you identifying what wire is what?

[springer]

Yamaha xt225. Electrical stuff makes me dizzy. Three white wires from the stator. The manual says with a meter set to  ( ohms x 1) ... don't know what this means, I set the meter to 200 ohms because that's lowest i have...... anyhow you put positive on stator  wire one and negative on stator wire two, then put positive on stator wire one and negative on stator wire three.  Both readings should be between .48 ohms and .72 ohms, if outside this range replace stator. I get 1.3 ohms on both readings. I could never fly a plane by instruments, I just don't trust them, my reading is almost twice the outside range of .72 ohms, still not convinced those miniscule numbers mean anything.

Okay, I do not know how much electrical knowledge you have so please forgive me if I run a little long.
The first thing you need to do is set the meter to the lowest ohm reading you have if it does not have an auto-ranging feature. It looks like you have done that. Now you want to place the red lead and black lead together, tip to tip. What you are doing this for is to check to see if your leads or meter has any internal resistance. It should read 0 but if not, take note of the reading. If it reads something like 0.2 ohms you are good. If it is higher you can do this;
Let us say it is 1 ohm. So giving that your not reading 0 (and it should be 0 or very close to 0) you can subtract 1 ohm from your reading.
If you wish to check your meter further, you can remove the black lead (if you can) from the meter. Then use the red lead, place the tip into the connector (hole) that you pulled the black lead from.( What you are doing is checking the leads to see if one has gone bad.)  If you read 0 or very close to 0 repeat the steps above but plug the black lead in and remove the red lead. Once again you should read 0 or very close.
You can also take the stater to a shop that rebuilds motors (engines are fueled powered, motors are electrical powered) they can check it for you.
From what you posted, 1.3 ohms, odds are it is bad.
I do this as a living, electrical trouble shooting and repair in a industrial plant. We have meters that go way down in the ohm range to check transformers.

[Gam]

You can tell wires one, two and three by the location in the plug, you unplug the stator from the rectifier/regulator, the shape of the plug is such that you can identify the wire numbers, there is  diagram in manual showing it. Springer I am checking it because battery was dead, recharged it rode it around came home and the battery was dead, recharged the battery, rode it around came home and the battery was dead. Bought a new battery, rode 60 miles, came home and the new battery was dead. (the bike runs great once it's cranked)  I get .6 ohms when I touch the red and black leads together, I get zero ohms sticking the red lead into the black hole, and black lead into the red hole.  So 1.3 - .6 = .70 ohms...crap even less sure now. Heck all the charging system has is the stator to the regulator/rectifer to a fuse to the battery, I know the fuse and battery are good.

[springer]

 You are still at the high range of what it should read according to what you have posted though. If there is one close I would still run it by an alternator/motor shop and have them read it. What else is in the charging circuit? Is there a regulator or...?

[Gam]

Yeah still high. There is a regulator/rectifier then a fused wire to the battery. Fuse is good. This meter has diode testing if I can figure where to put the leads. OEM stator $277.00, ebaby stator with a regulator/rectifier $110.00, probably made in china.

[lazeebum]

You can also check the stator out put. There should be a test described in the manual.

[Gam]

You can also check the stator out put. There should be a test described in the manual.

Yeah, they didn't have that test in the manual, but I found it on utube, after i drained the  oil and took and the side case off, I probably ought to  put it back together before I spend 277 bucks on this thing.

[Gam]

Well they do have it in manual, I just missed it, run the engine up to 5,000 rpm and the voltage on the battery should be 14 v. Supposed to do that before you start fooling with the stator. :(

[Argh Oh]

Can you find a value for what the AC coming out of the stator should be?  My Aprilia should be reading about 60VAC across any two stator wires. NOTE: I have NO idea if that reading applies to other bikes. Do this without stator wires plugged into bike harness while running.
And yes you should be reading that 14VDC at batt while running if all is well. I had to go through this and it was the R/R that was shot.
A certain European country apparently finds it humorous to make bikes with charging system plugs that like to self imolate, often with nasty results.

[springer]

Yeah still high. There is a regulator/rectifier then a fused wire to the battery. Fuse is good. This meter has diode testing if I can figure where to put the leads. OEM stator $277.00, ebaby stator with a regulator/rectifier $110.00, probably made in china.

Put one lead on one terminal and the other one on the other terminal. If you are reading across the diode you should read .7(or hear a beep) or you should see OR infinity/OL/open.
Now swap the leads. If you read .7 the first time, with the leads reversed you should read infinity/OL/open.
If you read infinity/OL/open the first time, you should read .7 (or hear a beep)

There is a correct way to do this so you can see .7(or hear a beep) the first time, but there is no need to worry about it. There are only 2 readings you can get. So swapping the leads should give you both readings.

I hope I have not confused you.  :)

IF the readings to NOT change when you swap the leads, the diode is bad.

[Gam]

I'll give all this a try. I would be nice if it was only the rectifier/regulator that's only 20 bucks or so.

[Sagebrush]

Hopefully its fixed by now, but I'll add my .1 cents. You want to check the AC output, see if the 3 legs are about the same output at sustained RPM per the manual.  I just replaced a V-Strom stator and two legs were burnt. Rarely is it the R/R, might want to investigate what type of regulation you have though. My older V-Strom seems to be doing better with a SH775 R/R, its a series type and reduces the heat in the stator. I also upgraded the R/R on my ST1100 to a modern one, it makes a difference in stator life.

[Gam]

My chinese stator and regulator/rectifier came to day, it is well within specs checking the resistance, the one that is in there was a little out side the top range for ohms, so we shall see. What could go wrong with a chinese stator? :P

[Gam]

update:

Finally put in my cheap ebay chinese stator and regulator/rectifier, it's working, the battery read 13 volts without the motor running and 14.41 with the motor running, I guess the numbers are off due to my cheap harbor freight multimeter, but there is an increase with the motor running. Just hope it lasts.