Harley SE tuner

[DonJuan]

I have the tuner module for my FXDBP 103, but no Harley/ Screamin Eagle software. Anyone have the software and knowledge to retune after an exhaust change?

The bike has a stage 2 mod. Breather/ exhaust/ cams.

Swapping from really expensive and gaudy V&H big radius to some really cheap but sweet shotguns.

From these

To these

Any help will be appreciated.



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[springer]

 Never used the Harley Screaming Eagle tuner. It is too limited on what you can do, doesn't provide enough adjust-ability, and you have to take it to a Harley Davidson dealer for the tune...unless you can find a tuning shop that has broke the code. Plus the exhaust will have to be one that is "approved" to work on. 

PM member Magoo (if he is still here) or find him on the XR Owners Group forum. (you will have to join, but it is free)

He steered me to the tuner that I used on my XR1200R. It came with wide-band sniffer things (forgot the correct term, those thingies that are screwed into you exhaust and have the wire coming from them. They tell you the levels of the bad stuff" the EPA doesn't like.) The wide band ones are used by the aftermarket tuners and have a broader range. It is those that will allow a good tuner to get all the horsepower you can. Now how much extra HP you WILL gain will depend on how well the exhaust flows and if any work has been done to the engine.  About the only thing you really gain is lighter weight from the aftermarket exhaust and more noise. Plus the EPA has really cracked down on the kind of tuner that I had on my XR1200R. Read this \/

https://www.motorcyclistonline.com/beginning-end-for-motorcycle-power-tuners

I am not sure if they even make the exact type of tuner I had on the XR1200R anymore. :(

The sad truth is unless you spend the big $ on some very extensive engine modifications, then mate those mods to a set of pipes made for performance, you will only get maybe 5 or so extra HP and a few more P.F.T. (pound feet of torque)

Unfortunately, those "shotgun shorties"  you just put on will give you nothing more than a bit more lighter weight and a lot more noise. I do not see a "cross-over" on them. (pipe that connects the 2 pipes. Done correctly the exhaust flowing out of 1 pipe "pulls" the intake charge into the head of the other cylinder. )

I am not bashing H-D, have owned a few of them over the years...still have my 1990ish Springer.  I love riding them. Gives me a real connected feeling to my dad who owned a few.  ;) They will run for years on end as long as the oil gets changed and the other (very minor) service thing are done. My Springer has well over 100K miles on it. It really only needs new rings, but it could stand a 100% rebuild.
The only time I ever went into the engine was when I first bought it(it had less than 2k miles on it). I put in gear drive cams (to replace the troublesome chain drive ones) and had the heads ported (those I sent out to be done) After that I just changed the oil every 4k miles and replaced the drive belt @80 something K miles.

[merc16]

Can't help with the tune but the new pipes will look way better !

[bblass]

I've got the Vance & Hines FP3 tuner. It works through bluetooth and an app on your phone but from what I remember when I was comparing tuners, the setup once you're in the software is about the same.

You can go in and manually make your adjustments  - cam duration, etc. - or you can pick your mods, set your elevation and the software loads a canned map based on similar historical dyno runs that's effectively the 98% solution. I think for the SE one you need a special dongle cable but the SW is free on HD's website.

[DonJuan]

Thanks @bblass, @springer. Good info from both.  I may not need a new tune, as current exhaust isn't baffled, but it is longer. We'll see. If I get all the pieces to match the tuner I have, I may reach out to you for some advice dialing it in. I've been unfortunate to only own carbureted bikes up to this point.


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[DonJuan]

Can't help with the tune but the new pipes will look way better !

I think so too. New pipes shouldn't add too many more decibels. It's already deafening. Now it'll just be closer to my head, so I'll notice it more.

Positives are the gained ground clearance, and elements of badassery.


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[springer]

Thanks @bblass, @springer. Good info from both.  I may not need a new tune, as current exhaust isn't baffled, but it is longer. We'll see. If I get all the pieces to match the tuner I have, I may reach out to you for some advice dialing it in. I've been unfortunate to only own carbureted bikes up to this point.


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Well shoot, you job maybe waay easier. So It is carburetor? If so, it should be hard at all to do. (It looked new from the pictures, thinking just 2 or 3 years old) I would still stay away from the SE tuners though. Aftermarket can be much better and cheaper. If you want it done by someone, well just go with the guy recommends. If you comfortable with carbs, I would say do it your self. You can get it close enough at home, then take it to a place that has a dino, and a good rep.

Bike looks good...brand new.  ;)

[DonJuan]

No, it is FI. Sorry for the confusion. This is my first and only FI bike.


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[bblass]

I may not need a new tune, as current exhaust isn't baffled, but it is longer.

Are you running torque cones then? It's been a few years since I was looking at HD upgrades, but from what I remember the twin cams really don't like the leaner mixture and lower back pressure from straight pipes without significant map changes.

Check out the vance & hines FP3 ( http://a.co/d/bg3qwPI ). It has an auto tune feature using the factory sensors that does a pretty swell job. A 30 minute auto tune ride fixed my map to almost completely eliminate decel pops after I upgraded my intake & exhaust. The cost is significant, but it's cheaper than a second dyno session if you plan any more upgrades. I think Ebay may have some for a lower rate as well.