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Haven't been riding much the last couple weeks, but.

Started by LawnmowerRG, November 10, 2015, 02:15:04 PM

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LawnmowerRG

I have been working on some BR stuffs. So here we go.
The trailer was a bit of a mess with everything piled in there. The generator was buried. Some of the stuff just piled up. So I thought about it, and with my previous experience on the RV industry I figured I could help things out a little. I started with mounting the generator and building an enclosure around it. So here is the start of things.

If you don't know there is a little more to it than just throwing a box around it.




Like you have to have a certain amount of forced ventilation. This serves to keep the temp in the box down and keep fresh air in for the carb.



Next is to make the control panel easy to access.



After this I need a sealed side door because it is pull start. I need to do a couple more figures and make vents in the trailer floor. And the  biggest thing is to make an exhaust pipe that runs out the floor and up the front of the trailer to roof level.
Lofty Goals Possibly May Be Reached
Modest Goals Possibly May Not.

Ryanbroome

I love building stuff. Can't wait to see where its going.
I want to do the same thing to the back of my truck so I'm following closely

LawnmowerRG

#2
Ok lets add a little more.

You need the fan to come on whenever the Generator is running. So I wired this one into the 12v plug on the control panel. This means that the 8.3 amps that was available is now only 2.9. As the fan pulls 5.4.



I pulled the control panel apart and used ring connectors to attach strait to the back of the plug. This puts the fan on the breaker so there is no need to put in a fuse.



I put shielded spade connecters on the wires so the fan can be unplugged easily if the generator ever needs to be removed.
Always put a shielded connector on the positive so it doesn't short on the frame or motor if it gets disconnected.



If you don't recognize it this is just a small 12v radiator fan from the auto parts store. This one is rated for 500 cfm. the bigger the generator the more air you need to move thought the enclosure to keep it cool. The goal it to keep the inside air as close to the ambient air temp as you can. High temperatures will kill the generator unit faster than the motor.

Another thing I did to help keep the inside temp down was to wrap the muffler.

Lofty Goals Possibly May Be Reached
Modest Goals Possibly May Not.

kdtrull



LawnmowerRG

Installment Next

So I ran into a little problem. I made the box then discovered that the trailer is not Square. I knew that the front wall had a curve. but in the hight of the box it is almost an inch different from the top to the bottom. I will get back to that before it is though.

Here is the next thing I did though.

I added doors. this being a portable generator. You need a side door for the pull starter and to access the choke. I couldn't get the door open far enough to see the pull starter and choke.


Then is to add a door on top so you can fill it with fuel.



I added a lip on the top so that you could put something on top ( one of the boxes of stuff BR has) and it not slide off.



You can see the curve on the back in this picture.


Now gather up all that old paint in the basement to prime the new crappy lumber and that old dried out lumber.



Actually before that other picture set up you custom down draft paint table.



Hope you have enough left over paint in one color to get a solid coat before you paint it to match the inside of the trailer.
Lucky me had a couple partial cans of silver.


Remember to actually get the link for the correct picture when you type the next steep, or you end up with 2 duplicate pictures and people will be confused.







Lofty Goals Possibly May Be Reached
Modest Goals Possibly May Not.

LawnmowerRG

Sorry, went to meet up with some friends for dinner.

To make the box fit with the new found discovery.
I had a move some stuff around on the doors to get enough area to cut off what needed to come off.

So I did a little fudging and cut an angle on the back of the box. Luck I had a piece of scrap big enough for the up right.
I moved the doors and their mount back about 3/8 of an inch. Then cut the angle. 

On the top I took most of it in the door hinge gap. As well as I had left a small amount extra on the back of the top so I could fine tune the fit inside the trailer if needed. I couldnt do the same on the bottom as I didnt have enough leftover thick seal. I am building this with left over stuff I have laying around. 



It also required a little work on the inside structure for the bracing of the fan.



I think I will need to fill in that little triangle. The brace was against the wall. but now I think it will stand off making a gap. That area needs to be sealed so it has positive air flow. With out it you will get recalculation which will cause heat build up. 

Also notice the wood is soaking up that paint.
Lofty Goals Possibly May Be Reached
Modest Goals Possibly May Not.

LawnmowerRG

Ok I have done a little more.

Cut the Trailer Floor. Yea I cut vents in the floor.

The Exhaust vent need to be a large as possible. The Fan is 10 in so 78 sq in if I remember correct. The hole I cut is about 100 sq in then factor some Hardware cloth for a screen.



The intake holes are smaller each but more Sq In over all.



There is a reason for the configuration There is a frame member that runs through there and You want fresh air for the intake of the motor. As well as the intake of the Generator unit.

Here is the fresh air intake for the Generator.



You want to make sure you have more area on the intake side venting. If the fan pulls a vacuum around the generator the carb will not know what to do and the thing will not run correctly.

If you dont have Hardware cloth handy. or if you dont want to buy a role you can use gutter screens. Just remember that the mesh is thicker and that eats up the actual are in the hole you cut.



Lofty Goals Possibly May Be Reached
Modest Goals Possibly May Not.